Geekshed – M1BXF Rotating Header Image

Uncategorized

OY Faroe Islands DX’Pedition

As bunch of us from the CUWS (Cambridge University Wireless Society) headed to the Faroe Islands for a weeks DX’Peditioning between Monday 17th June 2013 and Monday 24th June 2013.  We are currently staying in a hostel in Torshaven.

I’ll be operating as my home call in Faroe’s so that is OY/M1BXF; QSO and QSL details are on my QRZ.com page.

The antennas are a 2 element 6m beam (far left), 20m vertical dipole at the back, just to the left of the building, and a 40m vertical up front (which also works on 15m).

2013-06-17 21.42.50

Radio wise we have 2x Elecraft K3’s and an FT-817 for driving the 4m transverter. We also have an FT-100 as a spare radio.

P1000613

23cm Masthead System (Remote RX/TX Amp)

Most people know coax has loss, the higher the frequency the greater the relative loss.  You can go buy better coax with less loss – however every coax has loss and once the signal is lost, it’s lost.

This is more prevalent on receive as in reality loss in the receive system equates to noise, and loss before a preamp is added as noise in the preamp gain along with the wanted signal, not what you want. On transmit you can over come coax loss by increasing the transmit power at the radio end of the coax. 

The way to get round the receive issue is to put a preamp as near the antenna feed point as possible so there is as little loss, thus noise, added to the wanted signal.  In reality with a preamp at the antenna feed point the gain of this amplifier only needs to equal that of the coax losses, so if you have coax losses of 10dB then you don’t need 30dB of gain!

In the early days of contesting in the G3PYE/P contest group 23cm was always our weak point.  We done what we could to minimise our losses between the radio and antenna. The target was reducing the loss of received signals as well as increasing the transmit power to our antenna so we were heard by other stations.

Usually at G3PYE/P we use 25m of Ecoflex-15 coax on the 20m pneumatic mast, but on 23cm we found even this length of decent coax had a big restriction on our signal and we could manage a couple of dozen QSOs tops.  Now the Ecoflex-15 datasheet states for 25m of coax the loss would be 2.45dB (100m = 9.8dB), in reality we found our 25m runs to be nearer 6dB! this was on 2 different lengths of Ecoflex-15 we have from different drums…  So for 23cm we cut a run to 10m which was 2.4dB and ran the mast at 8m which improved our losses but impacted our coverage due to less height above ground.  For further info we use a homebrew 47element yagi, we made 4 of them for the 2009 VHF NFD.

As part of the improvements to the G3PYE/P station contest group I build a masthead mounted preamp to overcome all coax losses on receive, this is nothing special, however was I also done was to build it in a box which also housed a 45w transmit amplifier. Not so common.  Actually I built 2 identical units, one for G3PYE/P and one for G6UW.

2012-07-30 21.11.22

The preamp was an LNA one supplied by Sam G4DDK and the transmit amplifier was one of John G4BAO’s.

Measurable Improvement

If we looked at our average positions in the RSGB 23cm UKAC contests then before we started using the 23cm masthead system we had an average position of 4.4th place (5 events) in restricted section.  After starting to use the masthead system our average positioning became 1.3 over 6 events, a huge improvement.

The System is In 2 Parts

Here is the block diagram of the system.

Masthead_Block-Diagram

As you can see there are 2 parts to this, the Masthead Box and the Control Box.  The Masthead Box is, quite obviously, mounted up top next to the antenna.  The control box sits with the radio and between them is 3 core mains cable, as thick as you can get so there is as little voltage drop as possible and the coax feed.

Notice in additional to that the 24v line in the control box is such that the preamp control MUST be off before the TX control line can goto 24v on the control line – this is the interlock mechanism to ensure both the preamp and TX amp can be enabled together, which would likely destroy the active device in the preamp.

Control Box

I’ll cover the Control Box first as it’s simple and can be covered quickly.  Basically the TX control is done by hard-switching a relay, connected to the radio this input line is grounded on PTT to enable 24v on the control line.

RX is basically a reversed bias-T which is used to drive a relay from the 12v the Icom IC-910 puts on the coax for powering a normal masthead preamp but instead of powering the preamp it energises a relay in the control box which switches 24v on the control cable when the IC-910 has the preamp enabled. I use the IC-910 to drive the preamp control as the IC-910 will always remove this 12v from the coax before going into TX which protects the preamp. 

2012-11-19 21.55.33

2012-11-19 21.56.02 2012-11-19 21.55.51

Masthead Box

The masthead box houses the active transmit amplifier, the receive preamp and relays to switch each in or out.  The amplifier is one designed by John G4BAO and is based on an MRF9045 28v 45w device. 2.5w in is all that is needed for the max output.  This is ideal as the Icom IC-910 has 10w output on 23cm and by the time it gets to the top of the Ecoflex-15 with it’s 6dB loss we have the voila 2.5w needed, perfect.

DSC_0630

Here you can see the TX amplifier on the top cover with the preamp in the middle below and the relays either side of it.  You can also see with 30w out here (2.0w in) for 3.34A @ 26v, 86.84 DC watts, which shows 34.4% efficiency, the datasheet claims 41% so quite close showing the design is good. When the amp is at 2.5w in the efficiency rises to 37.6%.

2012-04-01 21.14.53

DSC_0631 DSC_0628

The preamps has 38dB gain with 0.28dB NF which is amazing really. Possibly too much for terrestrial applications, and I did plan to put a 10dB attenuator on the preamp output to stop overloading the Icom IC-910 receiver, not done that yet but in the UKAC’s we don’t see an issue. The connector for the DC is a 3 pin waterproof plug is a Bulgin Buccaneer type which is good to 10A.

To mount the TX amplifier, the heatsink was glued to the outside of the box and a hole cut where the PA would attach to it.  The PA board is screwed to the heatsink so in effect sandwiches the box lid between the heatsink and the PA box so it won’t move out of place.

CIMG8310

Waterproofing

To waterproof the heatsink in order to stop water getting through the hole we have made in the lid, I used liquid tape on the outside edge of the heatsink.

2012-04-09 22.05.12

DSC_0646

G6UW

So I not only made one of these units, I also made one for G6UW, the Cambridge University club, they are effectively clones of each other.

2012-07-28 18.46.31

Additional Images

2012-04-12 16.43.37 CIMG8312

DSC_0634 DSC_0635

DSC_0637

PICAXE-20X2 Icom Automatic Voice Keyer Mk2

2012-04-23 09.20.50

This project was based upon my original Icom Voice Keyer Mk1 which worked well however I found it a little large and after use a few areas for improvement were needed, but the main reason was I sold it to someone who was desperate for it without the skills to make one…

In the Mk2 version there are 2 main updates over the Mk1 version;

  • Update: The AUTO button has been removed and replaced by the function of a long press of any of the M1..M4 buttons.
  • Update: Installed a relay in the PTT line to isolate the footswitch from the radio to improve PTT detection – for cancelling a voice keying in progress.
  • In the Mk2 version I’ve added a feature to allow an LED to illuminate to show which voice memory is active, this is useful in AUTO mode, but you can decide if this is for you.

So lets look at these changes in turn.

Auto Update Button

In the Mk1 version I did actually change the code that allowed AUTO mode in 2 ways; that was to first press the AUTO button then the memory M1..M4 button and off you went or to just long press the appropriate memory M1..M4 button for 1 second.  The second way worked very well so I never really used the AUTO button so I removed it from the Mk2 design and works great.  Short press is a memory M1..M4 button and you get a single voice key and a long press of a memory M1..M4 button and it puts it into AUTO mode, triggers the memory playback and illuminates the AUTO LED to let you know you are in auto mode.

PTT Relay Isolation

I also found in the original version there were times that trying to cancel the voice key when it was playing was not possible meaning if you heard someone call you you had to wait for the voice memory to finish playing before you could cancel it.  While some of that might have been down to code I also found some was hardware in that when the Icom was in TX the PTT line was LOW (0v) which was the state needed to detect if the footswitch was pressed.  As the PTT line was low pressing the footswitch made no difference to the state or PIN level on the PICAXE chip so it couldn’t detect the user was trying to cancel playback.  My solution in the Mk2 version was that while in AUTO mode, or when an individual voice playback is active when not in AUTO mode, isolate the footswitch from the Icom PTT line using a relay.  This has a number of useful outcomes;

  • When the radio is in TX meaning the Icom PTT line is low the PTT input state from the footswitch, now being isolated, can be detected by the PICAXE chip. 
  • This also allows the PICAXE chip to detect the Icom PTT line on a separate PIN, this is used for a few states in the code including stopping the timer function when in auto mode, meaning the timer only counts when the PTT is not active and better memory playback cancelling.
  • When in auto mode and you cancel the playback, there is a slight delay in connecting the footswitch to the Icom PTT line to stop the radio going into TX and transmitting over the station you want to hear when you are just wanting to cancel the voice keyer. This delay is only 200mS but releasing the footswitch before this time puts the relay in direct mode so the next footswitch press will allow TX.
  • When not in AUTO mode the PTT is straight through the relay so that the footswitch is directly connected to the Icom PTT pin.

Memory LED Illumination

The buttons I used have built in LEDs so I implemented this new memory playback indicator feature. When a voice memory is triggered from the voice keyer box the LED associated with the memory M1..M4 button illuminates for the duration of the playback then goes off when back in RX.  In auto mode this is useful to show which memory is being keyed each time the timer is reached, the Mk1 version only had one LED to show it was in AUTO mode, this AUTO mode LED is still in the Mk2 version.  So now in the Mk2 version when a a voice memory playback it triggered, either individually or automatically, then the appropriate memory button LED illuminates.  See the video for a clear example.

Video

During construction I made a little video to show the keyer in action.

Interface Notes

As explained in the Mk1 article the way to trigger a voice keyer memory playback on Icom radios is to switch in a resistance between pins 3 and 7 of the 8-pin mic connector.

Icom_External_Keypad_Schematic

The way I implemented this for PIC control was obviously to use transistors as the switches.

NOTE: The schematic is shown reversed to the Icom keypad image which is due to only showing a small of the schematic.

image

In the Mk2 project I placed SMD resistors of the required value between the transistors in a chain.

2012-03-31 15.19.24

Images

2012-04-02 20.33.14

2012-03-30 18.07.43 2012-03-30 18.28.07

2012-03-31 16.47.52 2012-04-02 20.33.05

Project Box & Labelling

The box I used was from an old soundcard case which just seemed to work perfectly. I rubbed off the original lettering with some Magic Sponges, which is foam with very fine particles embedded which makes it abrasive but very finely leaving no scratches (ideal for lots of everyday cleaning, everyone should have some). I then designed the label to go on the top, which was one of the first projects where I started using Microsoft PowerPoint for designing the layout sticker. 

I wrote a separate article on that.

VoiceKeyer_Layout_Mk2

You can grab the PowerPoint pptx from my webpage.

PICAXE-20X2 Code

The PICAXE code can be found here for download.

The Human Beam

So I was the driven [element] in this bit of fun;

We done this before setting up for a 70cm RSGB UKAC from our usual site at Worts Causeway.

Radio was a Yaesu FT-817 using internal batteries at 2.5w.

Fixing 2m Tonna Dipole with Polymorph

What is Polymorph? Polymorph’s full name is Polycaprolactone which is basically a mouldable plastic when heated, normally in warm water.

2013-01-26 21.17.17-1

The problem I had, which seems to be a common one, is the threads for the thumb-screw which holds the driven element to the boom on the 2m 17 element Tonna used by G3PYE/P had all but gone meaning the driven was getting held in place with cable ties meaning it could be misaligned with the other elements reducing performance.

Polymorph came to the rescue by being moulded to creating a new threaded section, but there was a little preparatory work needing done first. The original hole the thumb-screw went into was not going to be big enough to add polymorph with sufficient quantity to create a strong bond and thread.

As shown in the image below, the the original hole was made bigger with and side channels created at 45 degrees to better hold the Polymorph in place.

2012-04-05 17.08.10

While the Polymorph was still hot and pliable I inserted (by screwing and NOT just pushing in) the original thumb screw so the thread would be set into the Polymorph once it hardened.

2012-04-05 17.15.40  2012-04-05 17.16.04

Any excess Polymorph was cut away and filed flat so the driven element plastic mounting would sit flush to the boom.

2012-04-05 20.23.00

This is the final result.  The driven is now held in place without issue on the boom, you could of course just go out and buy a new driven element, but that’s not HAM RADIO!

2013-01-29 20.39.34

North Ronaldsay EU-009 Holiday

So my girlfriend wanted the chance to see the Aurora (northern lights) and as it is her birthday on New Year’s eve we decided we should get away for New Year.  After a few searches, and shocks at the prices of going to places like Norway, Iceland or somewhere similarly that far north, we found a nice cottage called Nuester on North Ronaldsay which is the most north easterly island of the Orkney Isles.

north_ronaldsay_map

I was given permission to take a radio and have been active as MM1BXF/P over the New Year’s period. Thanks to Rob M0VFC for a loan of his Icom IC-7000, Thomas M0TRN for a loan of his Z11pro ATU and to Lawrence M0LCM for a loan of his BudPole vertical and mini switch-mode PSU. I’ve actually been using a 40m dipole.

The IOTA reference is EU-009, the WAB is HY75 and the locator IO89SI.

As my home call is M1BXF I’ll need to get QSL cards printed for my MM1BXF call, and due to the rubbish organisation of the RSGB QSL BURO will no doubt need to argue I’m an RSGB member, then have my envelopes sent back from the sub manager, argue some more and eventually get the cards so I apologise in advance for any delay in BURO card responses. Please QSL via M1BXF.

Parrot Asteroid + UNIKA in my Nissan 350z

So I recently changed cars from a Volvo S60 to a Nissan 350z Roadster.  The 350z came with the GT pack which includes a Bose sound systems however surprisingly the standard double DIN head unit had a tape deck!  It also had a 6 disk changer but no support of MP3 playback, something I needed to change.

2012-12-23 15.40.04

The GT pack also means there is a built in Sat Nav so there was no need to get a large double DIN unit with full touch screen and navigation.  I decided instead to remove the double DIN, install a double to single DIN harness and force in a single DIN head unit, one with built-in Bluetooth hands-free, but which one?

Actually the decision for me was easy.  For a long time I’ve been using Parrot handsfree units, CK-3100 and MK-i9200 specifically.  These are essentially ‘bolt-ons’ to the installed head unit.  Since I installed my last Parrot handsfree unit, the MKi-9200, Parrot have released a range of head units with Bluetooth handsfree embedded as standard. The unit I went for was the Android powered Parrot ASTEROID, and I found a promotional pack including their UNIKA steering wheel controller on Amazon UK.

20120927_115946

Parrot ASTEROID

The Parrot ASTEROID is an Android (1.5 Cupcake) powered device which has no CD (or tape) playback.  But it does have;

  • Large 3.2 inch display.
  • Support for MP3 playback from either an SD card or USB thumb drive. 
  • Support for GPS via a USB GPS puck.
  • Bluetooth v2.1+ EDR; Profiles: HFP, Bluetooth Stereo (A2DP), OPP, PBAP, HSP,SPP and AVRCP
    • Voice Calls and Stereo Music playback.
  • Install additional Apps.
    • APRSDroid
  • Decent Speaker output options.
  • Steering wheel controls (via UNIKA).

20120929_182421

UNIKA

The UNIKA is an interface which sits between the cars steering wheel controls and most Parrot products.  It supports CAN-Bus, K-BUS and resistive steering controls.

Steering-Wheel-Interface

In summary I initially had problems getting the system (Asteroid + UNIKA + Steering Wheel Buttons) to work, this was mainly due to lack of documentation for how to wire it up.  It was not a real problem as I had the wiring harness diagram from the Nissan 350Z so connecting up the UNIKA to the steering wheel was quite easy.

This is what the Nissan 350Z wiring service manual shows for the steering wheel connections.  I’ve added how I wired it up to the steering wheel controls, including an additional resistor to combine the 2 separate circuits of the controls into a single sense wire to the UNIKA.

350z_UNIKA_Connection

This is how the Parrot interface documentation, which wasn’t so clear to start with, after I’ve again added my wiring solution;

UNIKA_Connections

I never got a good photo before I Sugru’ed up the connector.  The scotch connectors at the back are the Green GND and Blue V1 connections, under the white Sugru over the front is the 270Ohm resistor between pins 32 and 24 of M39.  It really is very simple when you know the correct wires.  Once it’s wired up follow the UNIKA manual to program the specific steering wheel control vs function.

2012-10-20 17.11.46

Adding 70MHz (4m) Allocation To Flex PowerSDR

image

I had a question about how to ‘remove’ the “Out Of Band” message you see in PowerSDR when using it with a transverter on 4m.  Natively Flex do not have the 4m allocation in their .XML config file so PowerSDR reports any frequency in 70.xMHz as “Out Of Band”.   The fix is easy and requires modifying the .XML file to add 4m band plan definitions.

The XML is located in the folder;

Windows 7 C:\Users\<username>\AppData\Roaming\FlexRadio Systems\PowerSDR <version>
WinXP C:\Documents and Settings\<username>\Application Data\FlexRadio Systems\PowerSDR <version>

I’ve added the text below into my XML, from line 1197 (but yours may be different), i.e. between the 6m band info and the 2m band info sections.


<BandText>
    <Low>70</Low>
    <High>70.05</High>
    <Name>Propagation Beacons</Name>
    <TX>true</TX>
  </BandText>
  <BandText>
    <Low>70.051</Low>
    <High>70.149</High>
    <Name>Narrow Band modes</Name>
    <TX>true</TX>
  </BandText>
  <BandText>
    <Low>70.15</Low>
    <High>70.15</High>
    <Name>MS Calling</Name>
    <TX>true</TX>
  </BandText>
  <BandText>
    <Low>70.151</Low>
    <High>70.199</High>
    <Name>Narrow Band modes</Name>
    <TX>true</TX>
  </BandText>
  <BandText>
    <Low>70.2</Low>
    <High>70.2</High>
    <Name>SSB/CQ Calling</Name>
    <TX>true</TX>
  </BandText>
  <BandText>
    <Low>70.201</Low>
    <High>70.259</High>
    <Name>All Modes</Name>
    <TX>true</TX>
  </BandText>
  <BandText>
    <Low>70.26</Low>
    <High>70.26</High>
    <Name>FM/AM Calling</Name>
    <TX>true</TX>
  </BandText>
  <BandText>
    <Low>70.261</Low>
    <High>70.294</High>
    <Name>All Modes</Name>
    <TX>true</TX>
  </BandText>
  <BandText>
    <Low>70.295</Low>
    <High>70.5</High>
    <Name>Channelised</Name>
    <TX>true</TX>
  </BandText>



After adding this then you get the correct band segment displayed in PowerSDR.

image

This guide could obviously be applied to any other band you wish to add to PowerSDR.

Camb-Hams Mull 2012 DX’Pedition

So the Camb-Hams headed back to Mull for their 2012 DX’Pedition which I took the main lead on the VHF organising, we booked a cottage in the slightly rarer square of IO66.  We initially planned activations on 6m, 4m, 2m and 3cm using SSB, CW and JT6m.  In the end we managed much more than we ever intended, including EME on 2m, 2m/70cm satellite operations and later in the week a few QSOs on 23cm after swapping the 2m and 3cm kit over.  3cm from IO66 is a first and many contacts on 6m and 4m were also firsts.  Much more information over on the Camb-Hams Mull 2012 page., w

 

IMG_20120428_101750IMG_20120427_195422IMG_20120428_101629IMG_20120428_101742IMG_20120428_114934IMG_20120428_120827
IMG_20120428_181722IMG_20120428_181726IMG_20120428_211406IMG_20120428_211448IMG_20120429_110429IMG_20120429_200224
IMG_20120430_135108IMG_20120430_193757IMG_20120430_203322IMG_20120430_203355IMG_20120430_212730IMG_20120501_091742
IMG_20120502_202457IMG_20120503_081931IMG_20120503_171926IMG_20120503_171931IMG_20120505_135648IMG_20120505_145227

Mull 2012, a set on Flickr.

23cm 80w Amplifier

DSCF8936 (Medium)

For a while I operated on 23cm with just my IC-910 with it’s UX-910 module, this was only 10w.  Rather luckily  John G4BAO lives local and had designed and published a nice 45w LDMOS 23cm amplifier.  It was quite easy to go put a pair together using a pair of W6PQL hybrid combiners.

DSCF8936DSCF8937

To start with I had the pair on a flat 19” rack which was rather exposed and didn’t have all parts integrated such as the PSU.  I had planned to box everything up but it wasn’t till I purchased a suitable box I got the chance to do it.  Here are a load of photos showing the final amp with the 2x G4BAO amps, the input and output hybrid combiners and the 24v 10A PSU.  The output is shown on the meter and peaks at about 80w.

The amplifiers:

DSCF8896DSCF8917

The Hybrid Combiners:

DSCF8908DSCF8911

Metalwork:

DSCF8897DSCF8904DSCF8901DSCF8907DSCF8893DSCF8903DSCF8898

The Build:

DSCF8914DSCF8912DSCF8915DSCF8927DSCF8932DSCF8892DSCF8918DSCF8922DSCF8931DSCF8929DSCF8894DSCF8921DSCF8926DSCF8923DSCF8925DSCF8928DSCF8930DSCF8933

In the Shack:

IMG_20120318_165425